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  CONTENTS

  Epigraph

  Prologue

  Chapter One: CLUB 81—SAMMY AND JIMMY

  Chapter Two: AND THE BABY MADE THREE

  Chapter Three: BANTAM SAM WAS THE MAN

  Chapter Four: OH, THE PEOPLE YOU’LL MEET!

  Chapter Five: OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO! WEST SIDE RAMBLES

  Chapter Six: WANDERLUST: SONOMA, HAITI, AND PARIS

  Chapter Seven: TITINE AND TABASCO

  Chapter Eight: SOUL-FULL

  Chapter Nine: AFTERMATH

  Chapter Ten: IT AIN’T OVER ’TIL IT’S OVER!

  Playlist

  Acknowledgments

  About the Author

  RECIPES

  Caldo Gallego–Galician White Bean Soup

  Mommy’s Sunday Roast Chicken

  Roast Goose

  Choucroute Garnie à Ma Manière

  Goujonnettes de Sole with Ersatz Sauce Gribiche

  Ten Boy Curry

  Soupe au Pistou

  I can’t cook now. I’ll just drink.

  Maya Angelou’s New Year’s Kale

  Leg of Lamb with Spicy Mint Sauce

  For those who knew me then

  And those who knew me when

  And those who know me now

  You cannot step twice in the same river.

  HERACLITUS

  PROLOGUE

  My man is

  Black Golden Amber

  Changing.

  Warm mouths of Brandy Fine. . .

  So opens Maya Angelou’s poem “To a Man.” If I’d read those lines back in the 1970s, this story would never have happened. Instead, ignorant, trusting, believing in love, and woefully too young, I raced in. I’ve been rereading Angelou’s poetry recently because her passing has brought memories of my youth vividly back, like Léon Damas’s long-held-in hiccup. I relive them again and again.

  I’ve been known to say that I am the Zelig of the second half of the twentieth century because it has been my great good fortune to turn up in multiple special spots. I lived and studied in Paris when Les Halles was still going strong and the buildings were gray, I’ve supped with Sembène in Senghor’s Senegal, and I’ve danced in the Candomblé ring in Jorge Amado’s Bahia. However, the real reason that I identify with the Woody Allen character is that it was my privilege to spend part of my youth with Maya Angelou, James Baldwin, and their circles of friends as they were becoming icons of twentieth-century America. Their joy in one another, the fierceness of their intellectual pursuits, and their absolute dedication to civil rights and to the righting of civil wrongs of all sorts made their names hallmarks of honesty and totems for truth that influenced the world.

  I am not central to the story, although I have lived it; rather, it is about an extraordinary circle of friends who came together, lived outrageously, loved abundantly, laughed uproariously, and savored life while they created work that would come to define the era. That they knew one another was interesting; that they partied together, savored one another’s company, encouraged one another’s endeavors, celebrated one another’s achievements, and mourned one another’s losses is extraordinary.

  This tale is also the story of a city. New York City, its neighborhoods and its vibrant life, is also a character, for no other place in the world could have spawned and celebrated their lives with such intensity. Paris had the belle epoque, the 1920s, and the existentialist 1950s; London had the swinging sixties, and New York City in the early 1970s was the hub-of-the-universe city. It was a city in the throes of a major transition, when restaurants could offer a glimpse into the fading world of café society or bubble with the excitement of the new era that was being created, and the clubs that existed for every possible social stripe throbbed nightly with the excesses of the sexual and moral revolution that had been ushered in in the 1960s. Life was lived in wide-screen Technicolor in ways that had never before existed. It was the city before AIDS and economic downturns made it a very different place. Memory has muted some of the vibrancy of the colors, and the dates fade into a continuum, but the vitality of the friendships, the commitment to activism, and the joie de vivre of those heady days remain as palpable as the intertwined connective tissue of the lives that were lived then.

  James Baldwin was at the center of this circle of friends. His huge presence radiated warmth and intensity; his cultural and political stature at that point in time was enormous. Through my young eyes, being in Baldwin’s circle, however tangentially, felt at times as though all were in attendance at the court of a very reluctant sun king. Although the group was egalitarian, there was an unspoken hierarchy, and everyone sort of knew exactly where they fit in.

  If Baldwin was the pivot of the literary court, his trusted second was a gentleman and a gentle man from Durham, North Carolina, named Samuel Clemens Floyd III: Angelou’s Amber Sam. Floyd’s name’s literary allusion to Mark Twain was prescient, for Sam had been one of the early Black writers on staff at Newsweek and was the director of faculty and curriculum and taught English in the higher-education opportunity program, SEEK, at Queens College, where I also worked. Like Candomblé’s Orixa Ogun, breaker of bonds who clears paths and builds roads, it was Sam who opened the way into the circle of friends for me and led me down the rabbit hole into the wonderland that was that moment in time.

  Chapter One

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  * * *

  CLUB 81—SAMMY AND JIMMY

  It’s boarded and shuttered now, with windows taped as though for an impending hurricane or a wrecking ball: a relic of another time. Those who know the Meatpacking District from Sex and the City hurry by on their way to the High Line and the trendy restaurants or window-shop at the Louboutin shop across the street, but occasionally a passerby stops and stares into the blank windows as though recalling another time: a time before the area had a name, when this was the farthest outpost of Greenwich Village and there were some West Side blocks where only the brave dared walk because the rats were the size of small dogs. The Village then was a grittier place, but one that was equally vibrant with its own life. Beyond the building at the corner of Horatio and Greenwich Streets, farther up the street, West Street and the Hudson River loomed with meatpacking warehouses, single-room-occupancy hotels, hookers, johns, pickup bars, and nighttime cruising haunts for the gay population that had come out of the collective closet only a decade or so earlier.

  Then, this now-abandoned building was a beacon, a way station. Filtered light puddled on the corner outside its windows, the hum of conversation poured out the door, and on weekends the sounds of guitar music and singing could be heard as the tuna (singing groups from various Spanish universities) made their ways through the bar throngs singing Spanish college songs for tips. Then, if one lost the way, all that was required was a sense of smell. It didn’t have to be particularly good, for even those without acute olfactory nerves could recognize the aroma of garlic wafting from the kitchen. If you followed the pungent fragrance down the street, El Faro beckoned. It was a West Village landmark signaling safe passage to travelers like the lighthouse for which it was named.

  Reputed to be the first Spanish restaurant in New York City, El Faro sat on the corner at the nether end of the “respectable” Village. Vivian Kramer
described it in 1969 in the Greenwich Village Cookbook:

  El Faro is a small Spanish restaurant tucked away in the western part of Greenwich Village, well off the beaten track. The prices are moderate and the menu includes paellas and other rice dishes, as well as spareribs from northwestern Spain, which is where the owner comes from. One followed another, and fellow Galicians are still migrating to join the kitchen and dining room staff.

  The dining room is mostly tables and chairs—the emphasis here is definitely on food. The walls are decorated with life-sized portraits, like storybook illustrations, that do have a certain Spanish look, but, because of the food, nobody seems to pay much attention to the atmosphere.

  The phone rings frequently. Many of the callers are would-be customers who have lost their way. The owners give directions, but no reservations—the management just can’t promise to serve everyone who wants to eat there on a given night.

  Kramer captures some of the atmosphere, but she doesn’t convey the sense of surprise that many had when happening upon the dappled light streaming from El Faro’s doorway at what then seemed to be the end of the known world. Nor does she give a sense of the stygian decor of dark wood and stained glass that prevailed in the front room near the bar. El Faro was a hub; astonishingly cacophonous, it bustled nightly with the activity of neighborhood folks for whom it represented one of the few dining options. They packed the place along with others who came from afar to sample delicacies such as barbecued pork with almond sauce and shrimp with green sauce and partridge Spanish-style and pollo al ajillo (chicken with garlic) washed down with pitchers brimming with a heady sangria.

  Those in the know or with little to spend who wanted something comforting and warming would order the Galician specialty: caldo gallego, a hearty kale and sausage soup rich with shredded collard greens and chunks of potato. It was the owner’s salute to Galicia, his native corner of Spain, and a bowl made a filling meal. Neighborhood folks who were loved by the management could call for take-out orders by special dispensation, and the back room had booths where folks could hunker down for serious conversations well lubricated with drinks from the full bar.

  Kramer does not mention, and perhaps did not know, that the city’s famous showed up there on more than one occasion—actors Rip and Geri (Torn and Page); Richie Havens, who lived up the street; writer Dick Schaap (whose daughter Rosie remembers it well); and perhaps the most famous resident of Horatio Street: James Baldwin. I didn’t know El Faro and I’d never been to Horatio Street, although I lived in the West Village on Charles Street only a few blocks away. That would all change one afternoon in the early 1970s.

  It was a day like any other: I’d finished teaching my French classes at Queens College for the week and was heading down the street to the bus stop to return to my Manhattan apartment when I noticed a colleague in front of me. Awe inspiring in his intellect, with a notably acid tongue, he was the terror of the college’s SEEK Program, where his rants about pedagogy were legendary and kept the program on the academic high road. He was also the bad boy of the English department, where he taught some of the first courses the college ever offered in African American literature; the professors there admired his erudition. I was therefore astonished walking along behind him one afternoon to watch him surreptitiously as he capered down the street like a playful kid (in both literal and colloquial senses of the word). We met up at the corner and, chatting collegially, found out that we lived within blocks of each other in the West Village. I was nonetheless astounded when he asked me to stop by his place for a drink.

  We walked companionably and talked about everything from Village life to SEEK matters, the French courses I was teaching to things more personal. Sam began what would become a running joke, teasing me about my mother, who also worked at Queens College, albeit in another department and as a lowly administrative assistant, hounding him to make sure that the job I had been promised remained mine on my return from a year in France. To hear him tell it, she was a terror, and I giggled recognizing her single-mindedness in all things that concerned me, her only child.

  We both lived in a Greenwich Village that was in transition from the bohemian outpost where the grandmothers of those who’d made it in Little Italy lived alongside the artists and writers of another era. I lived on Charles Street right off Greenwich Avenue, the first tenant in an old-line tenement that had just been renovated into luxury apartments as part of the Village’s ongoing gentrification. We got off at West Fourth Street, my stop, as I had some things to drop off at my apartment before heading over to his.

  Near the subway exit at Eighth Street at the corner of Sixth Avenue (no New Yorker has ever called it Avenue of the Americas), the Women’s House of Detention still loomed gloomily, although it had been closed in 1971. Longtime Villagers recalled the street theater created by the women prisoners yelling from the windows down to their friends, pimps, and passersby on the streets and the replies shouted up. I remembered the prison from Angela Davis’s brief incarceration there and trials of the Black Panther activists that marked its last years. The tall red-brick edifice dominated the corner and had housed a range of prisoners from Polly Adler to Ethel Rosenberg to Grace Paley, and included Afeni Shakur who was two months’ pregnant with Tupac at the time of her sequester. It was torn down in 1973 and replaced by a garden, creating a deceptively peaceful memorial to the women who’d suffered there. Across the street on Sixth Avenue, Balducci’s, an old-line Italian greengrocer, offered vegetables and fruit at a time before every other Manhattan corner boasted a Korean market. Old man Balducci had taken a liking to me and always slipped an orange or two or a grapefruit into my bag when I shopped there.

  Small eateries catered to the neighborhood denizens and to those who headed to the Village for their weekend dose of bohemia. Many were red-sauce Italian like Angelina’s on Greenwich Avenue around the corner from my apartment, where Angelina, someone’s Italian nonna, terrified the kitchen and presided over the dining room greeting those she knew warmly and banishing others to the outer reaches. Other spots like Jai Alai, La Bilbaína, Café Valencia, and Sevilla were Spanish in the model of El Faro, each boasting variants of the shrimp in green sauce and spare ribs in almond sauce served in the same clay cazuelas and brimming aluminum cauldrons that the Horatio Street restaurant had made famous. And still others were steak houses and fine-dining establishments like Casey’s, the Coach House, and Charles French Restaurant. There was even a good representation of international restaurants serving cuisines from Middle Eastern to Japanese to Jamaican.

  Greenwich Village in the early 1970s was divided into several neighborhoods. The West Village, the main residential area, ran from Sixth to Eighth Avenues and from Fourteenth Street down to Houston Street. (A snootier section ran east of Sixth Avenue over to Fifth Avenue and was simply called Greenwich Village.) Eighth Street was the main shopping drag and boasted record shops with bins of vinyl discs including the Nonesuch ones of what would be later called World Beat Music, Brentano’s sold books, and on MacDougal, a side street, Fred Leighton sold frothy Mexican wedding dresses that I loved but couldn’t afford, long before he moved uptown to sell the antique jewelry that now adorns red-carpet denizens at Oscar time. Bleecker Street east of Sixth Avenue housed spots like the Village Gate, which hosted Latin musicians and jazz greats, and showcased some of the remaining beatnik coffee houses like Caffé Reggio and Le Figaro Café in the pre-Starbucks era.

  There were small off-Broadway theaters like the Circle in the Square; The Fantasticks at the Sullivan Street Playhouse had already been running for a decade. West of Seventh near West Tenth at 340 Bleecker there was Boomers, a jazz club that had amazing musical brunches and lethal Bloody Marys. It was so much a part of downtown Black life that it was even featured in the film Superfly. Nearby, the Pink Teacup provided hearty breakfasts complete with grits for jazz-loving night crawlers of the dawn patrol and soul food—fried chicken, smothered pork chops, and catfish—for nostalgic southerners. On Seventh Aven
ue, the Village Vanguard and other spots made the area known for jazz hangouts. A few short blocks to the south and the east, NYU offered the Collegiate Village. It was then contained in the zone around Washington Square Park, which still could be a nightly no-man’s-land. By day, though, the Village was every young girl’s That Girl dream and I knew all of those sections.

  But Sam and I left the Village I was familiar with, headed down Greenwich Avenue, and rounded the corner to Horatio Street, where the wind howling from the Hudson River seemed to chill things by several degrees and indicate that this was a different part of the Village—a wilder zone. We stopped in front of a Federal-era building at number 81 around the corner from the spot where Alexander Hamilton died following his duel with Aaron Burr. The building had been a private house in those days; in more recent times, it had been carved into multiple apartments. This was where Sam lived in what I would learn had formerly been James Baldwin’s building. They had been neighbors; that’s how their friendship began.

  He opened the door, and I was delighted to see the swish of a cat’s tail as Monsieur Blues, a sleek round-headed bluepoint Siamese, wandered over to greet Sam and nose around my feet, no doubt smelling my own Siamese cats. Blues, I would later learn, was Sam’s familiar, his confidant, and his solace. I settled in on the circa-1950s couch, and Sam took up residence in his throne by the window, he nursing a J&B scotch with a splash of water and me a glass of red wine.

  As we sat and chatted, Sam shed his gruff Queens College persona and eased into himself. He lit up one of the Gauloise Bleues he smoked obsessively, creating the fragrance mixture that would forever mean Sam Floyd to me—Chanel Pour Homme and French black tobacco—and talked of African American literature and opera, politics and cooking, and golf. I was intrigued and entranced by the breadth of his knowledge on so many disparate things.